I could not sleep well in Poo so I left in the night. It was eerie walking through the woods alone. As I got to the beach the rain was coming from the Atlantic. At first light of 7th low cloud was simmering off the mountains. I really did feel like a 'pilgrim of old'. It was a very hard 20 mile day.
Much better 24 mile day on the 8th with Nic the Belgium philosopher (an aetheist who agrees Da Vinci Code rubbish on all levels). I managed to put in the extra miles to get to Kaz's hotel. Thanks to Hugh from Bournmouth for help and friendly staff at El Manquin, Villaviciosa.
Today (9th) I begin to enter the mountains of the 'primitive way'. I'm told its the hardest of all the Caminos (ways). So the coming week is the crunch. Sunday I aim to be at 'Camara Santa' in Oviedo Cathedral.
The doctor has diagnosed 3 days rest for Kaz. The knee is slowly improving.
Updated by Fiona for Paul and Kaz.
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If you are going to walk the Primitivo (original route) here is an up-date on accommodation from two recent walkers on the Camino Primitivo, one German, one South African. Both had some recommendations on accommodations:
-- refugio in Grado is closed. Buy food there and walk 2.8 km more to San Juan de Villapanada
-- in Salas, don't stop at the albergue, keep going a few more km to Bodenaya to a very nice private one.
-- Albergue in Pola de Allande was full in mid-May, but there is a Fonda (nothing fancy).
-- Grandas de Salime -- both said refugio was dirty and stayed at the hostal across the street.
-- Good albergue in Patron, which is about 1.6 km from Fonsagrada (do shopping in Fonsagrada). Albergue has 6 rooms with 4 beds each.
-- Cadavo-Beleira -- gets the "best refugio on the Camino Primitivo" award from my German friend.
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